Back in the early 1990’s, the American craft beer scene was nothing like what it has evolved into today. The U.S. beer market was heavily dominated by corporate beers and imports. And although a few craft breweries (i.e.: Anchor Steam, Sierra Nevada and Samuel Adams) were gaining national recognition, the craft beer “scene” was relatively small and localized.

Inspired by the craft beer forefathers (i.e.: Fritz Maytag, Ken Grossman and Jim Koch), the mid-nineties gave rise to what is often referred to as the “2nd generation” of craft brewers. Whereas the 1st generation carved out the path for the craft beer industry, it was the 2nd generation of brewers that took craft brewing to the “extreme” level. Driven by innovation, creativity and slight insanity, this 2nd generation of craft brewers completely changed the beer scene as we know it today.

Rob Tod, founding owner and brewmaster of Allagash Brewing Company, is a member of this guild of highly sought after cult craft brewers. Prior to 1995, most American palates were unfamiliar with the Belgian beer styles. Belgian beers were not among the imports over-saturating the beer market. And although Michael Jackson had been writing praises about these styles for years, the average American beer drinker was clueless about them.

Enter Rob Tod, the man who was crazy enough to step outside of the box and brew some of the first American Belgian-style beers. In many ways, Rob and Allagash paved the way for and inspired the modern day American movement towards Belgian beer consumption and demand.

I had the honor of meeting Rob during the 2009 Great American Beer Festival at an event he was co-hosting with Dogfish Head and Russian River. I am not even sure how I ended up at the event and consequently in the VIP room, but I can say that it was one of my highlights, by far. And surprisingly enough, Rob not only remembered meeting me, but also remembered my name when I saw him again at the 2010 Craft Brewers Conference. (PS: Rob, Thanks for the beer!)

I recently had the opportunity to call up Rob Tod and pick his brain about his beer background and the creation of Allagash Brewing Company. And here is his story, as presented through the ramblings of The Beer Wench:

BW: Where, if applicable, did you go to college? What did you study? What additional activities, organizations, sports did you partake in during college?

RT: “ I went to Middlebury College in Vermont. I majored in Geology and was on the Nordic ski team.”

Obviously, studying rocks is a far cry from brewing beer.

BW: Why Geology?
RT: I was always fascinated by rocks. I liked the science end — there was a fair amount of chemistry and physics involved. That and the lab work was in the field.

Post college graduation, Rob Tod spent a brief stint in Colorado, but ultimately moved back to Middlebury with the intention of further education.

RT: I liked the faculty at Middlebury College. Thought about going back to get my PhD to  teach.

BW: What stopped you from pursuing this career path?
RT: I got a job washing kegs at Otter Creek in Middlebury. I was looking for a job and a friend suggested the kegwashing position. Free beer, I wasn’t going to say no to that. I was there for two days and knew what I wanted to do with the rest of my life.

Unlike many craft brewers, Rob was not a craft beer enthusiast or homebrewer before he got into the industry. His story is the reverse.

RT: I kind of discovered the beer industry a different route than others. Most discover beer and get into the industry. I got into the industry and then discovered craft beer. I was blown away that little breweries were making great beers.

BW: Every craft beer enthusiast has at least one pinnacle craft beer experience that completely changes ones perspective on beer. I refer to this mind-blowing moment as a “craft beer epiphany.” What was your first craft beer epiphany?
RT: I didn’t know there were craft beers in the U.S. back in the 80’s. I remember going to a keg party in Boulder in 1991. They had a keg of Pete’s Wicked Ale. First dark beer I saw out of a keg and I was like wow. It is crazy to think it now, but I was just amazed that you could get big beer like that in a keg. I don’t know if I even had Guinness at that point. At that time, I was just buying what I could afford.

BW: What was your first “Belgian craft beer epiphany”?
RT: Celis White — I randomly bought it off the shelf in the store. I opened the first bottle and took a sip and thought it was bad. I gave it to my friend and said, “taste this man, I think something is wrong with this beer.” He didn’t think it was that bad. I ended up finishing the beer. By the time I was four beers in, I was in love with that style. To this day, I remember that flavor. Piere Celis is a huge inspiration of ours. In fact, I visited him in December when I was in Belgium.

*NOTE: For those of you who may not be familiar with Piere Celis, he is considered the modern-day godfather of the Beglian wit style. Prior to founding the American brewery Celis, Piere Celis founded the founded the well-known Hoegaarden Brewery — where Celis revived the Beligan wit beer style. Unfortunately, both breweries today are corporately owned.

After hearing this story, it became evident why Rob Tod chose to brew Allagash White as his first beer, the beer that ultimately became the flagship of Allagash.

BW: What is the significance behind the name “Allagash”?
RT: Good question. Allagash is a region in Northwest Maine. I’m terrible at thinking up names. So I passed the task onto my buddies. One buddy told me to call it Allagash brewing because “you spent a bunch of time up there.” I didn’t like it at first. But then I found some space and needed to chose the name in order to start working on the brewery. One day I was staring at the paper and saw Allagash and went with it.

Allagash Brewing Company sold its first batch of beer in the summer of 1995. In the beginning, Rob was a one man team working out of a small, self-designed 15 barrel brewhouse in Portland, ME. Rob was the brewmaster, the kegging line, the sales force and the marketing team.

BW: Prior to starting Allagash, did you attend any formal brewing programs or schools?
RT: I did do a two week course at Siebel on the laboratory side of work. But really, I learned how to brew the hard way. We [Rob and his father] started alone just doing one beer only. Drafts only. Local only. Walk before we run. We’ve approached things slowly and cautiously.

This approach has seemed to work well for Allagash, who has gained a reputation as being one of the pioneers of experimental barrel-aged and sour beers in the craft beer industry.

BW: When and why did you decide to start using barrels?
RT: Curiosity. We have been doing it for over ten years now. We were just curious about the different flavors that can be imparted from wood.

BW: Allagash has also done a few collaboration with other breweries. What has been one of your favorites?
RT: Isabelle was a blast. Tomme deserves all the credit, though. He brewed the beer.

After learning about the history of Allagash, I wanted to learn more about the man behind the brewery — a more “intimate” side of Rob Tod.

BW: Who are some of your greatest mentors in the industry?
RT: Piere Celis, Ken Grossman, Kim Jordan. More inspiration than mentors. A lot of my peers, Sam,Vinnie, Adam, Tomme are all inspirations. Those guys are always doing new things that are inspiring us to do new things.

BW: What is your favorite style of beer to DRINK?
RT: Probably the Belgian White. In the beginning, my biggest fear was that I wouldn’t love the beer we were brewing and wouldn’t be able to go out and sell it. I love the style of white beer. I always seem to gravitate back towards that beer. I love the beer now more than we first started brewing it. I just love craft beer. When I’m on the road, I love trying new beers. So much cool stuff and innovation right now. I like to try a lot of styles of beers.

Let the record show, Rob Tod loves craft beer.

BW: What is your favorite beer style to BREW?
RT: I haven’t had time to brew in quite awhile. As far as actually brewing it, I like learning and trying new things. So whenever we are doing new things at the brewery, learning a new style, experimenting, etc… — it’s fun. What ever is new. Experimentation. Cool surprises. That is one of my favorite things about brewing.

Rob’s willingness and love for experimentation has definitely helped put Allagash on the map. The brewery even has its own koelschip in the outside air where the brewers have been experimenting with a “house” wild yeast strand that was discovered in a batch of beer and has since been isolated. Those beers have not been sold yet, however, they are rumored to reach the market, ultimately. Errr … I mean, hopefully.

I think I might have confused Rob a bit with my famous “Off The Beaten Path” series of questions … however, he was kind enough to answer two of my favorites:

BW: If you were a style of beer, what style would be an why?
RT: I guess a white beer cause I like it, my favorite style.

BW: What are your thoughts on bacon.
RT: I love it, but my doctor doesn’t think I should eat it.

Special thanks to Rob Tod for 1. providing me with an awesome interview 2. for being an amazing brewer and inspiration in the industry and 3. for being an all around genuine and truistic person. I truly adore you, your beer and your company.

Cheers!

Mussels are hands down one of my favorite things to eat.

Humans have used mussels as food for thousands of years.

Mussels are particularly popular in Belgium, the Netherlands and France – where they are consumed with french fries (“mosselen met friet” or “moules frites”) or bread.

Depending on the source, mussel season is either considered to be any month ending in “-ber” (September – December) or any month that contains an “r” (September – April). Either way you see it, the month of December is prime mussel season.

Most people are not aware of the overwhelming nutritional content of mussels. A study at Harvard University found that mussels contain virtually the same amount of protein as T-bone steak — yet are significantly lower in calories and fat.

Mussels are also rich in iron, manganese, phosphorous, selenium, zinc, vitamins C and B12 and more essential Omega-3 fatty acids than any other shellfish.

Mussels can be smoked, boiled, steamed or fried in batter. NOTE: Regardless of the method of preparation, mussels MUST BE COOKED WHILE STILL ALIVE. Sounds kind of creepy, I know. But you will survive.

How does one know if the mussels are still alive?

Live mussels will be tightly closed. If slightly open, tap on the shell. If they close, they are still alive. If not, discard them.

How does one go about purchasing mussels?

Mussels should be purchases at a seafood counter in a grocery store or at a fresh fish market. If mussels are the main course, one should plan on purchasing at least one pound of mussels per person being served. Most seafood professionals will wrap the mussels in some sort of paper.

Mussels have the tendency to suffocate in plastic bags. So if served in this fashion, poke several small holes into the bag.

How does one go about storing mussels?

Mussels are best when prepared the day of purchase, but can last 5-8 days if stored properly. The best storage technique is to cover mussels with a damn cloth, wrap them with a newspaper and refrigerate them until use.

How does one go about cleaning and prepping mussels for cooking?

Thorough cleaning of mussels is EXTREMELY important. Prior to cooking, soak mussels in cool, clean fresh water for 20-30 minutes. Using your hands or a brush, rub any debris off the outer shell underneath running water.

Some mussels might come with a “beard”,  which can easily be removed. Just grab the fibers at the edge of the shell and tug them off. This should be done just before cooking and not much earlier.

How does one go about cooking mussels?

My personal favorite is the Belgian method of preparing mussels. In Belgium, mussels are typically steamed with fresh herbs and flavorful vegetables in a stock of butter and white wine or Belgian beer.

My particular recipe for this article uses Belgian beer instead of white wine. My particular favorite styles to use are the Belgian Wit, the Saison or the Gueuze.

THE BEER WENCH PRESENTS:

BELGIAN BEER STEAMED MUSSELS

INGREDIENTS

(NOTE: This recipe is for ONE serving only. Multiply each of the ingredients by number of desired servings!)

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 shallot: sliced
• 1/4 cup celery: thinly sliced or diced
• 1/4 yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 1 pound mussels: cleaned, debearded
• 1/2 bottle (roughly 6 ounces) Belgian beer:
• ¼ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/8 teaspoon dried
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tablespoon butter
• Sea salt
• Freshly ground pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large skillet; add shallots, onion and celery. Cook until softened (about 5 minutes).

2. Add mussels, beer, thyme, bay leaf, and butter. Add salt and pepper to personal preference. Cover.

3. Cook until mussels are open. This will take roughly 4-6 minutes. Keep pan moving frequently.

4. Discard mussels that do not open.

5. Serve in bowls with the beer broth and toasted bread. Pairs very well with Belgian beers — preferably the same style of beer used in the recipe!

If compelled, french fries also make a perfect accompaniment to this dish.

ENJOY! CHEERS!

Very few things get my pulse racing quite like new beer releases from my favorite breweries. Especially, when the beers are unorthodox and deviate from traditional beer style guidelines.  The more bizarre a beer, the faster my heart begins to beat. And don’t get me started on sours — wild yeast beers trigger spontaneous convulsions and put me in an epileptic state.

If you feel the same way, then you might need to hold on to your seat for this announcement.

SBS Imports is pleased to announce the arrival of the two newest beers in the De Proef line-up, Van Twee Belgian Ale (collaboration with Bell’s Brewery) and Witte Noire Imperial Amber Wheat Ale.

Van Twee (translating to “From Both”) is the third beer in the Brewmaster’s Collaboration Series. Previous collaborations included Signature Ale with Tomme Arthur of Port Brewing/Lost Abbey and Les Deux Brasseurs with Jason Perkins of Allagash. If you have not had the opportunity to try either of these beers, I HIGHLY suggest trying to locate them. SO worth it.

Van Twee was co-designed and brewed by John Mallet of Bell’s and Dirk Naudts at De Proef. It is a deep amber-chocolate colored porter dubbel hybrid, with Michigan sour cherry juice and brettanomyces in the secondary fermentation. Layers of rich chocolate and coffee notes are followed by underlying sweet-sour cherry fruitiness with a long finish. It is reminiscent of the famous filled chocolates of Belgium. (It is available in cases of 6/750ml cork-finished bottles and 20L kegs.  Suggested retail price is $16.99 per bottle. Alcohol 7.5% by volume.)

Van Twee thrills me for many reasons. First and foremost, it is a collaboration brew between two of my ALL-TIME favorite breweries — Bell’s & De Proef. Secondly, it is brewed with the love of my life … BRETT (aka: Brettanonomyces, a strand of wild yeast). One of the most interesting aspects of this beer is the “mash-up” of the porter and dubbel styles — this is the first time I’ve ever heard of such a blend. And to top it all off, they threw in some sour Michigan cherries. In my opinion, Van Twee sounds like a chocolate-covered cherry explosion. I’m extremely pumped up to try this beer.

Witte Noire Imperial Amber Wheat Ale is another unique style interpretation created by SBS’ President Alan Shapiro along with Brewmaster Dirk Naudts. Witte Noire is a companion to the highly acclaimed La Grande Blanche Imperial White Ale, blending darker malts along with wheat in the grain bill. Witte Noire is a rich chestnut brown color with a full tan head. It features light roasted porter-like notes on the front pallet followed by a round, soft middle. Clove-like spice notes dominate the elegant finish. It is perhaps a Belgian interpretation of the classic wheat doppelbock beers of Germany.  (Witte Noire is available in cases of 6/750ml cork-finished bottles, with a suggested retail price of $9.99.  It is 7.5% alcohol by volume.)

“Our goal with both the Brewmaster’s Collaboration and Brewmaster’s Collection series is to bring products of unique taste profiles to discerning Belgian beer enthusiasts,” noted Shapiro.  ”I believe these beers are exceptional additions to De Proef range available in the U.S.“

The De Proef Witte Noire strikes me as the perfect winter warmer and an magical pairing with the heartier harvest ingredients & spices in typical autumn and winter dishes. I predict Witte Noire being a hit at Holiday parties. In fact, I think I’ll bring it to Thanksgiving dinner at my friend’s house!

Other noteworthy De Proef beers include:

• ZOETZUUR (translates to “sweet-sour”) – Unique amber colored, oak-aged Flemish red ale of multi yeast strain fermentation with a hint of Belgian Kriek (cherry) juice added. This is quite possibly my favorite Flemish red.
• SAISON IMPERIALE — Belgian Farmhouse Ale. Light amber in color, funky wild yeast notes and spice to the nose, with a bit more malt character, body, and hop notes as appropriate to the “Imperiale” style. To this date, this is the only Imperial Saison I’ve come across. It is pretty extraordinary!
• RIENAERT — Flemish Wild Ale. Fermented three times with two different yeasts, including a strain of brettanomyces – the “wild yeast” of lambic brewing. Pale golden color with an enormous rocky white head. Brett and spicy aromatic notes, with a malty-juicy note on the palate. Finishes with Brett and dry hop notes. The strain of brett used in this beer is most often described as yielding “horse-blanket” and “barnyard” aromas. It is one of my favorite brett beers, BUT HEED MY WARNING — it is NOT for the faint of heart (for those who are not big fans of the gueuze style and barnyardy aromas — this may not be a good beer for you!)
• SIGNATURE ALE — A unique collaboration with noted San Diego brewer Tomme Arthur. A complex hybrid of aggressively hopped west coast IPA, combined with traditional Belgian brettanomyces fermentation. Strong citrus hop notes followed by hints of sourness and delicate spice and a long finish.

ABOUT DE PROEF

Highly regarded Belgian brewing engineer and professor, Dirk Naudts, founded the De Proefbrouwerij in 1996.  He crafts each batch in an 11HL (9 U.S. barrel) brewhouse that blends state-of-the-art technology with traditional methods.  Prior to creating DeProef, Naudts was the Brewmaster at Roman Brewery in Oudenaarde, Belgium and Brewmaster at the prestigious St. Lieven brewing program in Gent, Belgium.

ABOUT SBS IMPORTS

SBS Imports is based in Seattle, Washington and was founded by specialy beer industry veteran Alan Shapiro in 2002.  IN addition to De Proef, SBS also imports Aspall Cyders from Suffolk, England and Batemans Ales from Lincolnshire, England.  More information is available at www.sbs-imports.com.

There is something that my readers should probably know about me.

I am obsessed with Ohio State Football.

Born and raised by an obsessive Ohio State alumni father, I was destined to become a Buckeye. And Buckeye I have become. I graduated in the Spring of 2005 with 2 bachelor degrees and varsity letters in 2 different sports.

Not only do I eat, sleep and breathe Ohio State … I also bleed scarlet and gray. (In fact, while at Ohio State I literally bled, sweat and cried for the school!)

Tonight, The Ohio State University will be playing in the Fiesta Bowl against The University of Texas. We have matched up against Texas a few times in the past couple of years … and each time has been a good game. Texas is a solid team and worthy opponent.

In honor of the Fiesta Bowl, I think it only appropriate to drink my favorite style of beer. What could be better than pairing two of my greatest loves and obsessions?

Ohio State Football meets Lambic … a match made in heaven!

The Lambic of choice for this evening is Cantillon Gueuze. To me, gueuze is the Champagne of beers. As a matter of fact, I often drink gueuze in lieu of sparkling wine for many celebratory occasions.

Those who have read my post entitled “My Obsession With Wild Beers” are aware that Lambics are my favorite style of beer … with gueuze being my favorite style of Lambic. Although I have yet to visit a Lambic brewery, the process of creating gueuze completely blows my mind.

Lambics are the base for Gueuze creation. Whereas most styles of beers are fermented with carefully measured brewer’s yeast, Lambics are created through a process of spontaneous fermentation. Gueuze is the result of artfully blending Lambics of different ages different tastes.

Gueuze is also one of the only styles that uses aged hops. (In gueuze, hops are used primarily for their preservation characteristics and not so much for flavor.)

One of the most infamous brewers of gueuze is Cantillon Brewery. Founded in 1900, Cantillon is a small traditional family brewery based in Brussels. The brewery also serves as the site for the Gueuze Museum in Brussels. It is open to the public to tour and see the maturing beer as well as to watch the brewing and bottling processes. Sign me up!

“The Lambic beers from the Cantillon brewery, which are conserved in oakwood barrels, are called “young” after one year, but they will reach their full maturity after three years. The young beers contain the sugars which are necessary for the second fermentation in the bottle. The three years old beers will contribute their taste and their flavour. The main task for the brewer, however, is tasting. He will taste about ten Lambics from different barrels in order to select five or six which will be used for the Gueuze 100% Lambic presenting the typical characteristics of the beers from the Cantillon brewery.” Source: Cantillon Brewery

Gueuze bottles are always sealed with a cork. Cantillon caps theirs with a crown-cork. Similar to the méthode champenoise, Lambics are laid to rest horizontally in a cellar (usually for a year). This allows for a second fermentation to take place within the bottle. The sugars to be converted into carbon dioxide in this process. It is a natural and extremely slow process.

When the Lambic becomes sparkling, it is called Gueuze! Every blending will produce a different Gueuze. Since it is made using an entirely all natural process, there is no standard gueuze. Each brewery produces a unique gueuze. Every vintage is different. Yet another reason why the gueuze is my favorite style.

But what about the taste? In my opinion, gueuze is one of the most tasty and drinkable styles of beer in the world. Beautiful and natural, gueuze is a work of art.

THE WENCH’S TASTING NOTES: CANTILLON CLASSIC GUEUZE

Brewery: Cantillon

Region: Brussels, Belgium

Style: Gueuze

Pairings: Goat cheese, figs, dried fruits, nuts, cheese, baked fruit pies, belgian waffles, pancakes with maple syrup …

Color: Super cloudy, golden orange

Carbonation: Little to no head, moderate lacing, decent overall carbonation.

Aroma: Belgian yeast (bananas & cloves), lemon, sour fruit, barnyard hay.

Mouthfeel: Very light bodied, smooth and clean.

Flavor: Citrus instantaneously overwhelms the palate. And I know it sounds weird for a beer, but I want to call it grapefruit. The flavor of the beer has a bitter acid component to it … similar to grapefruit. I would even go as far as to say it tastes like the rind of a grapefruit – ridiculously sour and fairly bitter. As the beer sits, it develops more apple cider-like characteristics.

Comments: This beer is super yummy. I guarantee that if I was to pour this beer blindly, most people would have no clue as to what it is … and most would not even be able to label it as a beer.

I am tempted to infuse a glass with a cinnamon stick. Perhaps I will do that with a different bottle in the future.

Cheers to the Buckeyes! GO BUCKS!

]]> http://drinkwiththewench.com/?feed=rss2&p=737 9 http://drinkwiththewench.com/?p=498 http://drinkwiththewench.com/?p=498#comments Sat, 11 Oct 2008 06:14:21 +0000 Wenchie http://thecolumbuswench.wordpress.com/?p=498

Avery Brewing Company (located in Boulder, CO) is one of my favorite American craft breweries … BY FAR! Avery’s Seasonal Maharajah IPA is one of my all time favorite IPA’s … a “staple” in The Beer Wench’s pantry! Avery also produces one the best barleywines that I have ever tasted – Hog Heaven. But that is only MY opinion – feel free to form your own!

Being new to Orlando – I am only JUST uncovering its beer “niches.”

The other day I found its candy store for big kids – Total Wine. Despite the name, Total Wine has a pretty damn decent beer selection – from all around the world!

I filled up a basket of single beers while I was there … and I am REALLY looking forward to sharing my experiences with each of the unique beers that I bought!

FIRST UP: Avery Karma

Beer Wench Tasting Notes:

APPEARANCE: Light golden amber. Thick, foamy, off-white, slowly dissipating head. Decently lacing (props to me for having a squeaky clean glass!) Cloudy with subtle sediment.

AROMA: Characteristically BELGIAN! Mild malt, almost non-existent hops on the aroma. Belgian yeast takes the cake – lots of clove … subtle banana … some citrus. DEFINITELY a Belgian Ale! My only gripe is that is does not have the typical aroma of a Saison – aka Belgian-style farm ale. It is missing the characteristic “manure-esque” aroma of saisons that I have come to know and love …

TASTE: Light malt, little hops, low alcohol. Very smooth, easy to drink. Bitterness increases as the beer warms and sits in the glass. Highly carbonated, minimal acid, short finish.

OVERALL: Not what I expected. Based on the description, I was hoping for something closer to a saison-style ale. Besides the characteristically Belgian aroma – this ale lacked many of the qualities that I love and enjoy about Belgian beers. HOWEVER, in the end – the beer was smooth and drinkable. The low ABV makes it easy to enjoy several of these – without regretting it in the morning.

Karma may not be the BEST Avery ale out there, however – it is still a pretty decent beer. One that The Beer Wench thinks is definitely worth trying! A lighter beer, with Belgian notes … and decent drinkability.

CHEERS!!!

“Saison” is the French word for season. It is also the name used for seasonally brewed Belgium farmhouse-stlye ales. The first saisons originated in in Wallonia, the French-speaking region of Belgium.

Historically saisons did not share identifiable characteristics to pin them down as a style, but were rather a group of refreshing summer ales. Each farm brewer would make his own distinctive version.

Saisons were traditionally brewed in the autumn or winter for consumption during the late summer harvest for farm workers. Because of the lack of potable water, saisons would give the farm hands the hydration they needed without the threat of illness. Farm workers who were entitled to up to five liters throughout the workday during harvest season (not a bad deal, eh?). In order to properly preserve the beer to prevent spoilage during the long storage, saisons were typically strongly hopped.

Today they are brewed year round in a few different countries.

Whereas traditional saisons were typically around 3.5% alcohol, modern-day saisons — generally bottle conditioned — have an average range of 5 to 8% abv.

“Saisons usually have a citric, peppery, quenching, quality, due variously to hard water, heavy hopping, spicing or deliberate souring. They are usually amber to orange in colour, and often very quite dry.” — Michael Jackson.

Check out the following review by Men’s Journal back in 2005 calling Saison Dupont “The Best Beer in the World. Period.”:

The Best Beer in the World. Period.
Saison Dupont
Origin: Belgium
Alcohol content by volume: 6.5%
With its luminous orangey-blond color and huge, rocky head, this beer just looks great. But wait till you taste it: Like other saisons, Dupont’s is made with a secret mix of herbs that give it an addictive earthy taste and an agreeable bitterness. At 6.5 percent, it’s also got a mild kick, which balances a range of citrusy, malty flavors that even wizened beer connoisseurs struggle to describe. “Impossibly delicious,” says legendary brewmaster Garrett Oliver. Saison Dupont is the “desert island beer” of many men (Oliver and present company included). Pop a cork, guys — we think you’ll feel the same way (brasserie-dupont.com).

“The Saison Dupont is a top fermentation beer with re-fermentation in the bottle. Since 1844, this beer has been brewed in Brasserie Dupont’s farm-brewery, during the winter time. Saison Dupont is considered “the classic” among the Belgian season beers! Coppery blond, the finest aromas and a strong bitterness transform this beer into a thirst-quenchener with no equal, just the way it was created. Brasserie Dupont’s selection of yeasts is the perfect base for these typical aromas and ditto taste. A real re-fermentation in the bottle, which will continue for a long time in a cellar, result into this complex and particular aromatic beer.”

Modern saisons brewed in the USA tend to copy the yeast used by Brasserie Dupont, which ferments better at blood warm temperatures (85 to 95 Fahrenheit) than the standard 65 to 75 Fahrenheit fermenting temperature used by other Belgian saison brewers.

Many of you may remember my first experience with the saison style ale was this past May while I was visiting Chicago for the National Restaurant Association show. I enjoyed both the Goose Island Saison as well as the infamous Saison Dupont. Since then I have tasted many other brands, both U.S. and Belgium. Perfect ale for the summer time. GO FORTH AND FIND ONE (or two or three).

The following are the most notable Beligum brands:

• Brasserie Dupont, Saison Dupont
• Brasserie Fantôme, Saison Fantôme (and numerous other Saison-style products)
• Brasserie Lefèbvre, Saison 1900
• Brasserie Du Bocq, Saison Regal
• Brasserie de Silly, Saison Silly
• Brasserie à Vapeur, Saison De Pipaix
• Brasserie Des Géants, Saison Voisin
• Brasserie Ellezelloise, Saison 2000
• KleinBrouwerij De Glazen Toren, Saison D’Erpe-Mere

The following are saisons brewed in the United States:

• Boston Beer Company, Boston, MA: “Samuel Adams Saison”
• Clipper City Brewing Company, Baltimore, MD: “Red Sky at Night”
• Dogfish Head Brewery, Milton, DE: “Dans Saison”
• New Belgium Brewing Company, Fort Collins, CO: “Saison”
• Old Dominion Brewing Company, Ashburn, VA: “Saison”
• Brewery Ommegang (Owned by Duvel), Cooperstown, NY: “Hennepin”
• Surly Brewing, Brooklyn Center, MN: “Cynic Ale”
• Victory Brewing Company, Downingtown, PA: “V-Saison”